Costa Smeralda, Sardinia. Photo: Shutterstock Sardinia is, without a doubt, best known for its breathtaking beaches, turquoise water and glamorous resorts. However, there is so much more to Italy's second-largest island than a regular summer beach holiday. If you decide to visit in September or October, you'll get to know a completely different side of Sardinia through its charming, quiet towns and comfortable temperatures ranging from 26 Celsius during the day in September and 24 Celsius in October that will let you explore beyond the coast.
One of the places that deserves a top spot on any fall itinerary in Sardinia is the colorful medieval town of Bosa. Located on the island's western coast, the city is built along the winding Temo River, overlooked by a hilltop castle, and creating a completely different atmosphere from the island's better-known resort destinations like Porto Cervo or Baja Sardinia.
Bosa. Photo: ShutterstockBosa will immediately catch your eye with its pastel colored houses climbing the hillside beneath Malaspina Castle. From a distance, the old town looks almost like a painting, with rows of pink, yellow, orange and red buildings following the shape of the landscape.
The historic district, known as Sa Costa, is particularly atmospheric with its narrow cobbled lanes and stone stairways spread throughout between old houses, small squares and viewpoints over the town.
Bosa. Photo: ShutterstockAt the top sits Malaspina Castle, also known as the Castle of Serravalle. The fortress dates back to medieval times and offers sweeping views across Bosa, the Temo River and the surrounding countryside.
A fun way to explore Bosa is the Tourist Train Bosa, operated by Bosatour. It passes through the modern town and colorful historic district of Sa Costa, with stops and views near Malaspina Castle, the old tanneries and San Pietro.
Boso. Photo: Alexandre.ROSA / Shutterstock.comFor a longer adventure, the Trenino Verde della Sardegna departs from Bosa Marina and travels slowly through the countryside and Malvasia wine valley towards Macomer in historic vintage carriages.
Photo: ShutterstockHowever, Bosa is not only about what is above the river.
The Temo is one of the things that makes Bosa so unusual, as it is the only navigable river in Sardinia. The river runs directly through the town before reaching the sea.
Bosa. Photo: ShutterstockTo truly get to appreciate Bosa, you must walk along the Lungotemo. The riverfront is lined with colorful buildings, old fishermen's houses and boats, creating one of the most recognizable scenes in the town.
The Ponte Vecchio provides another good viewpoint and connects the two sides of the river.
Bosa. Photo: ShutterstockFurther along the water are the old tanneries, known as Sas Conzas. Once an important center for leather production, the historic tannery district has been preserved as one of Bosa's most distinctive areas.
This combination of river, colorful architecture, medieval streets and industrial heritage gives Bosa a character that is difficult to find elsewhere in Sardinia.
Bosa Marina. Photo: ShutterstockAround Bosa, Bosa Marina provides an easy combination of town and sea. Elsewhere, Sardinia has famous stretches of coastline ranging from the glamorous Costa Smeralda to the beaches around Alghero, Cagliari and the southern coast.
Alghero, Sardinia, Photo: ShutterstockBut autumn is also a good excuse to spend more time inland.
Sardinia has a remarkable prehistoric heritage, with nuraghi scattered across the island. These distinctive stone structures are among Sardinia's most fascinating archaeological remains. One of the best-known is Su Nuraxi at Barumini, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Bosa works particularly well as part of a wider western Sardinia itinerary. Nearby Alghero is another excellent stop, with its historic center, waterfront and access to the spectacular Capo Caccia coastline. The area is also home to Neptune's Grotto, one of the island's best-known natural attractions.
Neptune's Grotto. Photo: Shutterstock
At the opposite end of the island, Cagliari (also hosting the airport that will get you there) offers a more urban experience.
Cagliari. Photo: Anatoliy Cherkas / Shutterstock.comIts historic neighborhoods, restaurants and long Poetto beach make it a good base for exploring southern Sardinia.
Porto Cervo, Sardinia. Photo: Shutterstock
Then there is the Costa Smeralda. The area around Porto Cervo is associated with luxury hotels, yachts and some of Sardinia's most famous beaches. It can feel very different from Bosa, but that contrast is part of what makes a Sardinian road trip so enjoyable.
The town is a great place to try traditional Sardinian cooking, with small restaurants and bakeries offering a more local side of the island.
For a simple stop, local bakeries are ideal for pastries and sweets, while restaurants around the historic center and riverfront are a good choice for Sardinian dishes and freshly prepared fish dishes.
Bosa also has its own wine worth seeking out: Malvasia di Bosa, a traditional local wine produced in the area.
Food across Sardinia is equally diverse, from pecorino cheese and handmade pasta to breads and regional specialties that vary from one part of the island to another.
Our search found surprisingly affordable one-week accommodation for two adults and two children from September 24 to October 1 starting at 420 EUR, just a few steps from the Sardinian Gallery and 2.5 km from Spiaggia di Bosa Marina. The Alghero Airport is 55 km from the property, while Cagliari Airport is 180 km away.
For October 8-15, we came across a top-comfort two-bedroom holiday home with free stay for children for 300 EUR in Orosei. If you prefer the iconic Olbia, for the same period we found a 65 m² apartment located 400 meters from the city center with free stay for children at 500 EUR.